Introduction

Kangchenjunga

In March 2001 an article appeared in the TGO (The Great Outdoors) magazine advertising its 'Reader's Trek', which this year was to the Indian Territory of Sikkim, a route through the foothills of Kangchenjunga. The trek was organised by KE Adventure Travel in Keswick, Cumbria.

I had never been on such an expedition before so I was rather apprehensive when I booked up, but the staff at KE were very helpful and reassuring.

As well as getting the cash together to pay for the trip, I also had to apply for a Visa and get various innoculations. However all my flights were booked and arranged by KE so that was at least one less concern.

To view details of all the photos taken on this trip link here.

Saturday 3 November 2001

I arrived at Aberdeen Airport prior to 0700 hours to check-in for the BA 1303 flight to London Heathrow, which was due to take off at 0825 hours. I was advised at check-in, that the flight would be delayed due to fog at Heathrow and boarding would probably be around 0830 hours, which it was. Once on board the flight we were notified that there was still a delay and that the flight would now take off at 1005 hours. I spoke with an air stewardess regarding being unable to connect with my flight to Delhi, which was due to leave London at 1100 hours and was advised that I would be put on another flight, probably via Amsterdam or somewhere similar.

At 1010 hours we were advised that the take off time had been changed again and that the cabin crew were now over their working hours and therefore the flight was cancelled. We were told to vacate the aircraft, retrieve our luggage and go to the BA Ticket Sales. This I did joining the queue around 1045 hours.

About 1330 hours I reached the front of the queue, and after a dispute with a BA representative regarding flights, I was booked on the 1600 hours flight to Heathrow and the BA143 flight from London Heathrow to Delhi at 1130 hours the following day. (4 November.) I was advised this flight was over-subscribed by fifty, so I would need to be at Heathrow early to ensure a seat.

At 1720 hours, 80 minutes late, the flight out of Aberdeen took off arriving in London at 1830 hours. At a hotel check-in desk I booked into the Comfort Inn, Shepiston Lane, Hayes, Middlesex. The cost for bed only was £85 with a £5 booking fee. I had to wait for about forty minutes for a bus to transfer me to the hotel arriving there around 2000 hours. Once I had checked in I had a snack and then retired for evening.

Sunday 4 November 2001

At 0650 hours I left hotel by bus for Terminal 3, Heathrow and transferred by train to Terminal 4, arriving there an hour later. Flight details instructed passengers to wait in the lounge but after waiting till 0840 hours I spoke to a BA representative and explained my cancelled and delayed flights with him. I was immediately shown to a check-in queue where I was attended to within a few minutes and had a seat on the Delhi flight. The only time that BA staff in my opinion were efficient.

On boarding the aircraft I became aware that the previous day’s flight to Delhi, which I was supposed to be on, was delayed and had still not taken off. I later learned that this was due to a bomb threat and mechanical problems. At 1230 hours, one hour late, my flight took off, with my original flight to Delhi still grounded.

Monday 5 November 2001

At 0200 hours, (2030 hours GMT) my flight arrived at Delhi and once I had cleared Immigration and retrieved my baggage I was met by a representative of Rimo Expeditions, KE’s agents in India. This was one of my concerns as I had phoned KE from Aberdeen to advise them that my flight had been cancelled. They assured me that I would be met in Delhi so I was pleased to see the representative and that KE had been very efficient in traking my movements. The Rimo Represntative showed me to an old Westminster taxi, with silk curtains and took me to the Imperial Hotel in Delhi. At the Hotel the receptionist had been instructioned that on my arrival to wake the trek leader, Rex Munro, an Australian.

Rex arrived a few minutes later and after introductions he explained that the majority of the party was delayed and that only two others, Drew Lambie and Gill Griffin who had travelled by Gulf Air, were at the Hotel. He advised me that breakfast was at 0700 hours and he would see me then. I changed money at the reception and was shown to my room where after a while I managed to grab a couple of hours sleep.

At 0700 hours I met Rex in the Hotel garden for breakfast where we were joined by Drew and Gill. Drew originated from Edinburgh but was now staying down south. A discussion took place as to what I wanted to do as I had missed the day’s tour of Delhi which Drew and Gill had done the previous day. I decided just to go with them on our next part of the expedition, which was to Darjeeling.

After breakfast we were taken to the airport where Rex and the Rimo representative booked us onto the flight to Bagdogra. They then left to go to the International arrivals to meet the rest of the group on the delayed London flight in the hope that they could be transferred in time to catch the Bogdogra flight, which only went once a day. However the flight to Bagdogra took off on time without the rest of the group.

The flight to Bagdogra went via Guwahati where some passengers left and others joined. We arrived in Bagdogra at 1340 hours and were transferred to a jeep, which took us to Darjeeling, which lies at 2307 metres up a long steep climb of several hours. En-route we stopped at a café for a bite to eat.

At Darjeeling we were taken to the Windamere Hotel arriving there around 1805 hours and shown to our rooms. It was a very old fashioned hotel with a coal fire in my room, which I didn't want lit. This was a mistake as a short time later it became a lot colder so I had to go and arrange for it to be lit. I declined the hot water bottle though. Dinner consisted of four courses with a pot of tea before retiring to my room to read and watch television. The bed was very hard but I had a reasonable sleep till about 0400 hours when I found the bed very uncomfortable.

Tuesday 6 November 2001

Hindu Temple

Breakfast was around 0900 hours and afterwards I went with Drew and Gill, to visit a Hindu Temple on Observatory Hill. We walked round the hill and down to the Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park where we saw red pandas, a snow leopard, a Tibetan wolf and a Himalayan black bear. We met kids from Nepal who wanted photos but I managed to avoid this and but they got there photos with Gill, which delighted them.

We also visited the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, which was very interesting as Sherpa Tenson, who came from Darjeeling, was prominent in the exhibitions. We also visited his statue and where he was cremated.

After a four course lunch with tea I went shopping and bought a picture, some postcards and presents before returning to the Hotel where I had tea and cake and wrote my postcards.

About 1845 hours the remainder of the group arrived in Darjeeling and we heard the reasons for their delayed flight. One woman, Stephen’s wife, decided not to travel after the problems at take off, and had returned home. The trekking group now consisted of sixteen plus Rex, the trek leader.

Dinner was at 2000 hours and at 2300 hours we retired to bed. I placed my thermarest on top of the mattress which made the bed more comfortable.

This link will take you to other photos taken this day.

Wednesday 7 November 2001

Breakfast was at 0800 hours and at 0900 hours we left Darjeeling by jeep. My fellow occupants were Cameron and Gina McNeish and Ian Smith. We set off for Pelling via Legship stopping en route for lunch. However I didn’t bother with lunch and went for a short walk with Drew and Gill.

At 1530 we arrived at Phamrong Hotel, Pelling (1949 metres) where we booked in. I was sharing a room with Ian. I had a stroll round the small village before dinner and bed at 2115 hours.

Thursday 8 November 2001

An earlier breakfast this morning at 0730 hours, before we left the hotel by jeep at 0815 hours. We visited a Buddhist Monastery before heading for Uttarey (2685 metres) which was the end of the road and the start of the trek. Here we met up with the porters, kitchen staff, yak men and sherpas led by Tashi (Wangail Soth Tashi) who was to be the local leader.

Our bags were packed onto the yaks and we set off through the woods on the start of the hike. Originally we were to start elsewhere but due to problems between the Nepalese and Indians this wasn’t possible. The trek was led by a sherpa and around 1200 hours we stopped for lunch. Other sherpas were positioned throughout the group thus allowing us to walk at our own pace. I was normally up front, in the first four, with Rex and a sherpa taking up the rear.

After lunch we continued uphill, slightly steeper now but with no real problems, to a small grassy plateau at Chitre (2685 metres) where the tents had already been pitched. We had hot orange, a briefing, and allocated our sleeping quarters. I was very fortunate as I was allocated a two-man tent for my own use as Ian, whom I shared with in the hotels, had paid for single occupancy. The rest of the party were paired up. We had some hot chocolate and then sorted out our gear.

Dinner was in the mess tent at 1830 hours and was followed by another briefing before we retired at 2000 hours.

The weather that day was sunny periods then clouding over with some rain, thunder and lightning around 1800 hours.

Ascent for the day was 765 metres with a descent of 45 metres. Maximum altitude was 2680 metres.

Friday 9 November 2001

Yak

At 0530 hours I awoke to a clear and frosty morning and to a mug of tea as kitchen staff went round the tents offering tea to everyone. Thereafter I packed my gear before breakfast at 0630 hours.

At 0720 hours we left the campsite and climbed up to Chiwa (3143 metres) which was to be our campsite for the night. We continued south along ridge to Kalihar (3440 metres) where we had a break. Drew, Gill, Maggie Berger, Cameron, Gina and myself, led by a sherpa, continued along the ridge to Singali (3685 metres) where we had lunch. This would have been part of the ridge walked on the trek if it had not been re-routed. Later we returned to Chiwa where I had a snooze. I didn’t feel 100% due to the altitude but felt better after taking on some more liquid.

At 1800 hours we had dinner in the mess tent and at 1945 hours retired to our tents where I wrote up notebook and read. Lights out was at 2030hours and I slept well, although up to loo several times due to all the liquid intake.

It had been sunny till mid afternoon when it clouded over. Cold in the evening and during the night.

Ascent for day was 1204 metres with a descent of 654 metres. Maximum altitude was 3685 metres.

This link will take you to other photos taken this day.

Saturday 10 November 2001

Sunrise from Chiwa

At 0500 hours I woke to a hard frost, clear sky with a pink tinge and a cloud inversion. Rose at 0515 hours and packed before bed tea arrived at 0530 hours, then basin of hot water which I used to wash and shave. Breakfast was at 0630 hours, which for me consisted of porridge, toast and honey.

We set off on the trek at 0710 hours along the Nepal/Sikkim border with stops at heights of 3523 metres (two stops – same height) and lunch at 3453 metres. There were good views of Chamlang, Makalau, Jannu, Kangchenjunga and Pandim.

At 1600 hours we stopped at our overnight camp site (3726 metres). It was a very cold area and we had to wait for some of the yaks to catch up before we could get our bags etc. Had a hot drink while waiting. There was a hard frost and it wasn’t yet evening.

At 1830 hours we had dinner and retired to bed at 2000 hours and read. Lights out at 2050 hours but I took a while to get to sleep as it was very cold, well my feet were and I was also wearing my balaclava.

Ascent for day 1165 metres with a descent of 575 metres. Maximum altitude was 3760 metres.

This link will take you to other photos taken this day.

Sunday 11 November 2001

Sunset

At 0530 hours I was wakened with bed tea. It was very cold and frosty as the campsite was in a hollow which made it even colder. It was also windy. At 0550 hours I climbed onto a small hillock and watched the sunrise. Thereafter I packed my gear and at 0630 hours had breakfast which consisted of porridge, pancakes and marmalade.

At 0710 hours we set off along an undulating ridge in sun but there was a cold wind blowing. However it got warmer as the day went on. The undulating path was snow covered in places and we now had views of the mountains in Butan and of Chamlaharry.

At 1240 hours we arrived at our snow covered campsite at 3932 metres. It was sunny but getting colder with slight wind. Once everyone had arrived at camp we had lunch which consisted of cheese and onion sandwiches. In afternoon I washed and cleaned some of my clothes, my first change of clothes on the trek. However my washing froze during the afternoon. I also did some reading and we were given afternoon tea and biscuits.

At 1800 hours we had dinner and retired to my tent at 2000 hours and read before lights out at 2100 hours. Cold frosty evening and night.

Ascent for day was 640 metres with 455 metres of descent. Maximum altitude 3932 metres.

This link will take you to other photos taken this day.

Monday 12 November 2001

Holy Lake

At 0540 hours bed tea arrived. It was a clear and cold morning as I packed and at 0630 hours had breakfast which consisted of porridge, toast and marmalade.

At 0730 hours we left the campsite and steadily climbed up the west side of the ridge towards the three holy lakes arriving at the campsite (4253 metres) at 1140 hours. The tents were already up and we had lunch at 1200 hours.

At 1300 hours, Gina, Maggie and I walked along an undulating path to one of the holy lakes about ninety minutes walk from the campsite. I continued to a viewpoint another ten minutes further on but the cloud came down and there was no view. I returned to the lake, joined Gina and Maggie and we returned to the campsite around 1545 hours.

At 1600 hours we had afternoon tea and biscuits in the mess tent and while seated there saw a brocken spectre. The sun set over Makalu and Everest.

At 1800 hours we had dinner and I retired to my tent at 2000 hours with lights out at 2015 hours.

Ascent for day was 550 metres with a descent of 245 metres. Maximum altitude 4253 metres. This however did not include the afternoon’s stroll.

This link will take you to other photos taken this day.

Tuesday 13 November 2001

Group

At 0520 hours I rose and packed before bed tea arrived at 0540 hours. At 0550 hours watched sunrise on Makalu. Breakfast was at 0630 hours, which consisted of porridge, pancakes and marmalade.

At 0710 hours we set off from the campsite and passed other holy lakes and standing stones to reach a col. At a second col there were magnificent views of the Himalayas. From the left Makalu, Everest, Janu, the five peaks of Kanchenjunga and Tent peak. To the right was Panchu, Japuno and Siniolchu.

After about an hour taking in this panorama we descended, steeply at times, over snow and ice covered paths to Gamothang where we had lunch at 1200 hours. It consisted of Tibetan bread, sliced potatoes with onion and fried spam.

At 1300 hours we set off again and climbed steeply before dropping down into the next valley arriving there at 1430 hours. The tents were already pitched and this was the campsite for the next two nights. (3953 metres). The sun was just leaving the valley as we arrived and it was turning colder.

I sorted out my gear and did some washing and wrote up my notebook before afternoon tea and biscuits at 1600 hours, then read till dinner.

At 1800 hours we had dinner and I retired to my tent at 2030 hours. Lights out at 2200 hours. Windy,but not yet frosty.

Ascent for day was 630 metres with a descent of 920 metres. Maximum altitude 4499 metres.

This link will take you to other photos taken this day.

Wednesday 14 November 2001

Distant Makalu

At 0600 hours I awoke and read as bed tea wasn’t due till 0700 hours. I then washed and shaved as usual when the basin of hot water arrived.

At 0800 we had breakfast, which consisted of porridge, fried egg on toast and toast and marmalade.

This was a rest day but I didn’t fancy sitting about all day so at 0855 hours, having discussed the matter with Rex, I set off up the valley on my own at a reasonably slow pace taking in the ambience. It was very quiet, still and hot in the sun. It was similar to the Lost Valley in Glencoe, Scotland, well maybe except for the heat. The head of the valley was enclosed by steep cliffs but I managed to find a path up through the rocks to a grassy area. Beyond that there were at least another four separate rises through large boulder fields and scree before the head of the pass. It became very difficult especially due to the altitude. I thought about giving up but decided to go on till 1300 hours to see if I could reach the pass.

At 1305 hours I reached the pass, the border between Sikkim and Nepal at 5150 metres. (highest point of trek) There was a small cornice but the views weren’t worth the effort. I took a few minutes break and started the descent. Conditions were a bit difficult and I had to take several short stops to get my breath back and take on water for the altitude. Once back into the valley I passed some Sherpas who had been sent out to look for Kate who had gone up into the hills on her own. Further down I met Cameron who was out for a stroll.

I returned to the campsite at 1545 hours and had afternoon tea at 1600 hours before sorting out my gear and tent.

At 1730 hours we convened at the mess tent, which had been decorated with coloured paper and candles etc for the Diwali, a religious celebration. A special meal had been prepared for this celebration, far too much food, with a fireworks display beforehand.

At 2015 hours I retired to my tent with lights out at 2030 hours.

Ascent for day approximately 1197 metres with a similar descent. Maximum altitude approximately 5150 metres.

This link will take you to other photos taken this day.

Thursday 15 November 2001

Sunset

At 0530 hours I rose and started packing. Bed tea arrived at 0540 hours with breakfast at 0630 hours which consisted of porridge, scone type of bread and omelette.

At 0710 hours we left the campsite and climbed steeply to a pass, descended and climbed again, steeply, to a grassy plateau where camp had been set up. It was only 1110 hours and we had hot juice and then at 1200 hours lunch, which consisted of chips, tuna, and pasta with mixed vegetables and egg, cheese and onion soufflé.

In the afternoon I walked up onto a ridge and sat there for a while before returning to the campsite to do some washing. At 1600 hours we had afternoon tea and biscuits and at 1800 hours dinner. It was very cold outside and in mess tent.

At 1945 hours we retired to our tents and I read for a short time before lights out at 2020 hours.
Ascent for day was 615 metres with a descent of 300 metres. Maximum recorded altitude was 4299 metres.

This link will take you to other photos taken this day.

Friday 16 November 2001

Sunrise on Kangch

At 0530 hours I wakened and started to pack after a good night’s sleep despite the extreme cold and hard overnight frost. Ten minutes later bed tea arrived and water to wash and shave in.

At 0550 hours I watched sunrise on Kabru and at 0630 hours had breakfast of porridge, boiled egg and pancakes. At 0715 hours we set off on the trek, first with a slight climb then a descent down a snowy path. It was sunny with a cold wind. A long ascent followed to the next pass and a further descent, very steep in places, on a snow-covered path to river that was crossed. One of the group fell on this descent.

Once across the river there was a very steep climb to the next pass, but some of the group were struggling on this climb. We rested initially in a warm sun waiting for the rest of the party but the cloud increased and lowered which made it quite cold again. We dropped down into the next valley and half way down we were met by the “juice man” who had walked back up the hill with hot juice for us. After drinking the juice we continued down to the campsite where we had lunch. This consisted of soup, chickpeas and some small pieces of fried sausage.

Some new yaks, needed for the higher altitude and a few ponies arrived at the campsite and we said bye to the original yak men who all received a tip.

It was now misty and damp so I wrote up my notebook and read with afternoon tea and biscuits being served at 1600 hours.

At 1800 hours we had dinner and at 1930 hours I retired to the tent to read. The cloud had cleared and it was a starry night. Lights out at 2030 hours. Good nights sleep but it was cold.

Ascent for day was 665 metres with a descent of 835 metres. Maximum altitude was 4556 metres.

This link will take you to other photos taken this day.

Saturday 17 November 2001

Campsite

At 0600 hours I rose and had bed tea. The sun was shining on the mountain peaks. I packed and at 0700 hours had breakfast, which consisted of porridge, chapati and peanut butter and jam.

At 0745 hours we left the campsite. The mist was clearing, with sunny spells but it was very cold. We walked down the valley to a bridge, crossed it and climbed steeply on a path to a pass. It was getting colder and misty so I put on warmer clothes. We descended to Dzongri arriving there at 1045 hours. This was the campsite for the night. It started to drizzle here so once the mess tent was up we sheltered in it, as our tents hadn’t yet arrived. It was the first time we had to don our waterproofs.

At 1215 hours we had lunch which consisted of doughboys in cinnamon, beans, tomato, pilchards, boiled egg, and potatoes.

At 1300 hours I sorted out my tent, wrote up notebook and read. The rain had turned to snow. At 1600 hours we had tea and biscuits and at 1800 hours dinner of spaghetti, mashed potatoes and cauliflower.

At 2000 hours I retired to bed. The sky was clear now with thousands of stars. Lights out 2045 hours. It was very cold and frosty during the night and I woke several times.

Ascent for day was 365 metres with a descent of 450 metres. Maximum altitude as 4341 metres.

This link will take you to other photos taken this day.

Sunday 18 November 2001

Pandim

At 0600 hours I awoke and had the usual bed tea as the sun was rising. Another trekking group was camped below us. This was the first group we had seen since we started the trek. Someone said they were Swiss.

At 0700 hours we had breakfast which consisted of porridge and crepes and marmalade. Alan and Lesley were giving up as Alan had a sore back. They will be to be escorted by a Sherpa down to Yocsam where they will await our arrival in a few days time.

At 0740 hours we set off on the day’s trek across undulations and a steep descent to a trekkers’ hut beside the Prek Chu, a glacier stream. On the descent we had to give way to a group of yaks coming uphill. At the trekkers’ hut Cameron, Gina and Rex met another guide they knew so we took a short break.

We crossed the Prek Chu and climbed up to Tangshing arriving there at 1100 hours. This was the campsite for tonight. At 1210 hours we had lunch, which consisted of soup, potato scones, fried spam and mandarin segments.

At 1320 hours I sorted out my tent, wrote up notebook, read and slept. At 1600 hours, afternoon tea and biscuits and at 1800 hours dinner of soup, pasta, sausage and peas and some kind of potato, apple custard and jelly.

At 2000 hours I retired to my tent with lights out at 2045 hours. Broken sleep due to the cold.

Ascent for day was 435 metres with a descent of 515 metres. Maximum altitude was 4040metres.

This link will take you to other photos taken this day.

Monday 19 November 2001

Sunset on Kangch

At 0530 hours I rose and had the usual bed tea before packing. At 0630 hours breakfast consisted of porridge, toast and boiled eggs.

At 0720 hours we left the campsite and strolled up the path to Samity Lake arriving there at 0945 hours. This was the campsite for the night. Nice setting. It was very cold at the start of the walk until the sun came into the valley when I was able to change into shorts.

We sat about until the ponies and yaks arrived with our tents and bags and had the usual hot juice. Once my tent was pitched I laid out a few things to dry.

At 1045 hours I left the campsite and walked up a narrow ridge with sheer drops to the right where the mountainside had been eroded by rain and snow. I had views of the glaciers of Pandim. Once above the first glacier I sat there and listened to it moving as well as some of the stones beside it.

At 1150 hours I descended back to the campsite and had lunch at 1200 hours which consisted of bread, omelette, roast potatoes, kidney beans and pilchards.

At 1300 hours I washed, changed my clothes, and packed for the early start the next day. I wrote up my notebook and read until 1530 hours when we had afternoon tea and biscuits. It was a cold afternoon with cloud clearing and good views of the mountains surrounding the campsite.

At 1700 hours we had dinner, which consisted of soup, rice and onion bhajis. At 1900 hours I retired to bed. The sky was clear with thousands of stars showing the snowy peaks surrounding the campsite with thousands of stars. I read for only about ten minutes before lights out at 1910 hours.

Ascent for day was 335 metres with descent of 10 metres. Maximum altitude was 4375 metres.

This link will take you to other photos taken this day.

Tuesday 20 November 2001

Kangch

At 0300 hours I was wakened by Rex and dressed in as many layers of clothes as was possible as it was extremely cold and frosty. At 0320 hours I had breakfast of porridge, cake (bread), boiled eggs and marmalade and at 0350 hours I set off towards the Goche La, accompanied by Cameron, Gina, Malcolm, Drew and five Sherpas. The party was all Scots except for Malcolm. The softies were left sleeping in their tents.

We climbed steadily up onto moraine ridges and across a sandy area, an old glacier, using head torches. Around 0520 hours we reached a viewpoint as the skies started to clear giving views of the mountain tops and later the sun shining on them.

At 0630 hours I arrived at the Exodus viewpoint with a Sherpa. Gina wasn’t feeling well and Cameron stayed back with her. Drew was struggling a bit. I had a rest at this viewpoint and removed some of my clothes as it was getting a bit warm especially after the steep climb to the viewpoint. Once the others arrived we continued to the Goche La which firstly necessitated a steep descent on a snow and ice slope. If at home I would have considered crampons. A short climb took us to the Goche La arriving there just after 0700 hours with Cameron. Drew and Malcolm followed a short time later. Gina had stayed at the Exodus viewpoint.

I stayed there for about ten to fifteen minutes taking in the views and having a snack. Cameron had set off back to be with Gina.

Drew and I returned to the campsite at a fairly brisk pace arriving there at 0930 hours. We had hot juice and packed our gear. At 1100 hours we had lunch of soup, scrambled eggs and beans and at 1130 hours set off down the valley to the campsite at Thangshing. It was clouding over with a cold wind.

At 1300 hours arrived at campsite (same campsite as 18 November) and had tea and biscuits at 1400 hours. At 1430 hours I obtained some hot water and washed and shaved, wrote up my notebook then read. It was cold and trying to snow.

At 1800 hours we had dinner, which consisted of soup, spaghetti, onion bhajis. We also had cake, which the kitchen staff had prepared to celebrate Malcolm and Anne’s twenty fifth wedding anniversary. Custard was supplied with it which was quite nice. At 2010 hours retired to tent and lights out. Slept well till 0140 hours then broken sleep.

Maximum altitude for the day was 4955 metres.

This link will take you to other photos taken this day.

Wednesday 21 November 2001

Campsite

At 0545 I was wakened with bed tea. It was very frosty outside.

At 0630 hours we had breakfast, which consisted of porridge, pancakes and marmalade and at 0700 hours we left the campsite and descended to the trekkers’ hut beside the Prek Chu. Thereafter we took the lower path, which undulated along the mountainside. The sun came out at the Prek Chu but only lasted an hour or so before the cloud rolled in.

At 1045 hours we arrived at the lunch spot having not gained nor lost any height. It was now cold and misty. Lunch consisted of chapatis, fish, pasta mix with some vegetables.

At 1200 hours we set off steeply downhill for approximately 1000 metres passing through a Tibetan village with its grocery shop and restaurant. This was the first habitation we had seen since the trek started.

At 1345 hours we arrived at the campsite. This was the lowest altitude we had been at for a couple of weeks. It was noticeably milder here. The campsite was located on a terraced area with very little space to move about. The tents were up but the yaks had not arrived with the bags. There were spots of drizzle.

At 1400 hours we had tea and biscuits and thereafter sorted out my tent and read.

At 1800 hours we had dinner of roast potatoes, rice, pizza, soup, and fruit salad. At 1940 hours I retired to my tent and read. Lights out at 2015 hours. I slept well till 0040 hours, when awake for some time, so read before falling back to sleep.

Ascent for day was 225 metres with a descent of 1540 metres. Maximum altitude was 4040 metres.

This link will take you to other photos taken this day.

Thursday 22 November 2001

Porters crossing bridge

At 0440 hours I was wakened by kitchen staff using burners to heat water and make breakfast. This was the first and only time I had this problem as the tents and mess area were so close together. I therefore read until 0540 hours when I had bed tea, washed and shaved as usual and packed.

At 0630 hours we had breakfast, which consisted of porridge, orange pancake and marmalade. At 0700 hours we left the campsite heading for Yoksam through undulating jungle type forest and across suspension bridges. It was a reasonable walk.

At 1050 hours we arrived at Yoksam, which was the first real civilisation we had encountered since starting off on the trek. Yoksam was as far as vehicles could go on an untarred road. We walked through the village to the Hotel Tashi Gang where we booked in. I was sharing a room with Ian. We met up with Alan and Lesley who had been staying there since they came down from the mountains. We had hot juice and a shower, the first for a couple of weeks.

At 1200 hours we had lunch which consisted of chips and tomato and onion sandwiches, beans and fruit. The meals here were still to be prepared by the hired kitchen staff, as the Hotel was not equipped to cater for such a large party.

At 1400 hours we had a walk through the village. It started to rain so I returned to hotel.

At 1600 hours I had tea and biscuits then read. At 1900 hours dinner, which consisted of soup, rice mix, very small piece of chicken, beans, custard and cake. After dinner we said farewell to the kitchen staff, porters, yak men and sherpas. They all received a tip and a bottle of beer. All were very happy and appreciative.

At 2100 hours I retired to bed and read with lights out at 2145 hours. Slept in sleeping bag on my thermarest as bed hard and sheets not very clean. Slept well till 0040 hours then broken sleep till 0430 hours.

Ascent for day was 355 metres with a descent of 1180 metres. Maximum altitude was 2663 metres.

This link will take you to other photos taken this day.

Friday 23 November 2001

Kalimpong

At 0500 hours woke and read until 0615 hours when I had another shower and packed. I walked round the hotel garden and grounds. At 0715 hours we had breakfast, which consisted of porridge, fried eggs, toast and marmalade.

At 0800 hours we left the Hotel Tashi Gang in Jeeps. I was accompanied by Cameron, Gina and Ian. We stopped in Jorethang for a short time so that some of the trekkers could get duty free and cheap medicines at a chemist.

At 1230 hours we crossed the border from Sikkim into West Bengal at Melli where my passport was stamped once again. Here we had lunch, fried noodles, (a bit spicy for me) bhajis (bit dry) and a Fanta for 30 rupees, about fifty pence.

At 1300 hours we left this border town and headed down the side of the Tista River before climbing steeply up to Kalimpong. At the turn off point we saw lots of monkeys. At 1340 hours we arrived at the Himalayan Hotel, which was a rather splendid building. Here we had tea and cakes on the patio before being allocated our rooms. Again I was sharing with Ian.

I later walked through the town, although it is not really a tourist area, before returning to the Hotel and had tea and cream crackers in garden. (No cakes left – what a pity.) I sat in the garden and wrote up my notebook and read. I later sat in the lounge area with others from my group.

At 1940 hours we had dinner, which consisted of soup, Indian style main courses, lemon sorbet and coffee. It wasn’t a great meal for the type of hotel but apparently it was closing down the following day, as the Americans weren’t visiting the area.

At 2200 hours I retired to bed with lights out at 2215 hours and had a reasonable night’s sleep.

This link will take you to other photos taken this day.

Saturday 24 November 2001

At 0545 hours I rose washed and shaved and at 0700 hours had breakfast before we left Kalimpong in our respective jeeps for Bagdogra Airport arriving there at 1020 hours. We checked in and went through various security checks.

At 1310 hours the flight left Bagdogra for Delhi via Guwahati.

At 1630 hours arrived Delhi, collected our baggage and were transferred by coach to the Imperial Hotel arriving there at 1740 hours. I visited an emporium across the road from the hotel but nothing purchased.

At 1830 hours I returned to hotel, showered and re-arranged my belongings.

At 2015 hours we had a good three course meal and coffee and at 2220 hours left the Imperial Hotel for the airport.

At 2300 hours we arrived at airport, checked in and changed money as not allowed to take rupees out of the country, then a four hours wait for flight.

Sunday 25 November 2001

At 0400 hours (2230 hours GMT) the flight took off from Delhi for London Heathrow.

At 0750 hours GMT we arrived at Heathrow, Terminal 4 and transferred to Terminal 1. I tried to get on the 0855 hours flight to Aberdeen but didn’t have my baggage so booked in for later flight.

At 1350 hours left Heathrow for Aberdeen arriving at 1455 hours and the end of the expedition and an experience not to be forgotten.

Conclusion

I was glad that I had booked this trek. KE were excellent in making the booking arrangemmets and in following up my phone call regarding my cancelled flight and ensuring I was met at Delhi Airport.

The trek itself was well organised with ample sherpas to allow us to walk at our own pace. Rex and Tashi were excellent leaders and I got on with most of my fellow trekkers especially Drew, Gill, Cameron and Gina.

The tents were of good quality and of course I was fortunate in getting one to myself.

There was always plenty of food and hot drinks. Obviously the food was different from what I was used to but it was of good quality, well cooked and enjoyable.

The weather was mixed, some warm sunny days and others cloudy. However when the sun went down behind the mountains it became very cold. My one criticism was that the trek information, especially for a first timer like myself, didn't indicate the extreme cold and the necessity for a down jacket, which I didn't have.

The trek was interesting with views of the high mountains of the Himalays, especially at sunrise and sunset when the views were awesome. I would however have liked a more challenging trek as I found some days very short and I seemed to spend a lot of the time in my tent. Some days could have been longer thus reducing the length of the trek by several days.